We are deep in the south of Italy here, at the very heel of the boot. But we’re not in Tuscany or any other familiar-looking Italian region! It’s only 43 miles by sea to Greece and a short distance from there to Turkey. The Turks were constantly invading here and have left their mark in the architecture of the white stone buildings.
This land once lacked water and was far from prosperous. So a massive underground aqueduct was built, a big tunnel of water 230 miles long. On top, it’s a long, flat walking road planted with forests and wildflowers.
Day 1
We set off from where a lone lighthouse stands looking out to the Ionian Sea, the Adriatic, and the Mediterranean. We walk flat trails, passing crumbling limestone walls with an occasional sheep herd. We reach the resort town of Otranto and climb the steps into the walled city. Lunch is served on the harbor with every type of seafood, some we have never seen before!
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An afternoon walking tour of Lecce shows us the richness of this town embellished with magnificent Baroque style churches and decorated with jewels for the first Papal visit. It was important to these proud southerners to impress their Vatican visitors and stand up to the wealthy cities of Rome and Milano.
Day 2
The trail along the Apulian Aqueduct offers complete tranquility, listening out for birds, looking for our first sighting of the famous, funny little cone-shaped Trulli houses, with caps on the rooftops. When the locals heard the tax accessor was coming, they’d remove the caps and claim they hadn’t finished building yet!
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At our hotel, we stay in our very own trullo house. Some of us have massages at the spa and others plunge in the beautiful pool surrounded by olive groves as far as the eye can see.
Day 3
We step straight out from our hotel along quiet roads. The trail winds and wends through forests and past rich red soil bursting with artichokes. There are miles of olive trees, some with massive trunks, hundreds of years old. We meet a farmer with his basket collecting wild mushrooms in the forest.
A fascinating afternoon tour given by Mimmo tells how the trulli are constructed. Then, time in the quaint village of Alberobello, which offers local delicacies and fine handmade linens.
Day 4
Finally. It’s time to arrive in Matera, a UNESCO site. From the distance in the National Park, we overlook the town built into the hillside in the rocks, or “sassi’.
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Vito tells us the history of the town and how people with their animals and families lived in these caves for generations. It is unbelievable to the eye and the brain to comprehend the holes in the hillside that they called home.
Little did we know, our hotel is built into the side of the mountain too and our rooms are caves turned into deluxe hotel rooms!
Day 5
We are lost in time and seemingly on a different planet. Nothing compares to Matera! Today’s walking is higher, overlooking vast canyons and we can see open, uninhabited caves as we scan the ridge.
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We meet our van and Ron, our Walk Manager, outside an ancient cave church, its doors wide open. And here’s the owner of this property waiting to show us the frescos on the walls dating from the 1700’s. Amazing that the dwellers living in these caves had such belief they built their own place to worship.
Suddenly, as we walk around the cliff walk, we come upon a cavernous opening and there is our luncheon table, strewn with homemade everything! Five courses, served by the very same olive pickers from the farm.
We know this is a moment indescribable, a tale only we can share among ourselves, in this very moment in time, in a timeless cave.
